The Dos and Don'ts of Rescuing Wild Birds
Protocols for dealing with injured or compromised wildlife found
- You require a permit issued to treat, rear or keep any indigenous wildlife.
- Because you “found it” does not make it yours.
- Any treatment which needs to be undertaken on injured wildlife needs to be done by a qualified rehabilitation specialist or vet.
(Authors: Pieter Saunders, Lynn Ravat, and Sigrid Oliver)
Firstly, when do you help a bird, and when do you leave it? If you can easily catch a bird, it most probably needs help! Even if the parents are around, they won't raise the baby on the ground or keep it warm. If a human can catch it, any predator (cat, dog, rat, other bird) can also. It needs help! The exception for this will be birds that live and breed on the ground. Fledglings learning to fly will be up in the tree around the nest; when they are ready to come down to the ground, it's difficult to catch them. If you can reach the nest of the baby bird (and you are sure it is the right nest), you can, in some cases, put it back and keep an eye to make sure the parents are feeding it. Don't build your own nest; the parents will see the strange foreign object as dangerous and will definitely not sleep in it or keep the little one warm.
If the bird is fully feathered but too young to fly, try to put him outside in a small cage during the day and allow the parents to feed and look after him. Make sure that they are indeed feeding him and that he is eating. Cover half the cage and keep an eye. Bring the little bird in the evenings or if the weather gets cold. They can often be released to be with the parents in 2-3 days. This should be carefully supervised, and if the parents disappear, he needs help.
If you are unsure whether to help or not, please phone a Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre, and they will gladly advise you on what to do in our specific situation. They are there to help.
If you can catch a sick or injured bird, it definitely needs urgent help!
If you've decided that the bird needs help, please start by checking its temperature. Feel the skin underwing; the bird should feel a bit warmer than you. If the bird is cold, you need to warm it up A.S.A.P. Once a bird is cold, it can't regain its normal body temperature; therefore, covering it with a blanket alone will not help. Use a beanbag or bottle with warm water and a soft blanket; just make sure it doesn't get too hot (sitting wings away from the body or breathing with an open mouth is too warm!). A lamp with a bulb works well for keeping a baby warm, but a bottle or bean bag is more effective to warm a cold bird. Keep the bird in a dark place to minimize stress. Do NOT use cotton wool or energy-saving light bulbs!
Once the bird is warm, check if it is dehydrated or food in the crop. A dehydrated bird will have wrinkly skin (especially around the belly), a dry mouth and eyes sunken in.
If the bird is dehydrated, the crop is empty, or you are unsure, start with lukewarm electrolyte water. Preferably Darrows or Ringers, but you can make your own:
NEVER give a cold bird food or fluids, always warm it up first.
After the bird is warm, please contact your nearest Wildlife Rehabilitation centre.
The following are guidelines only. Only use in emergencies and when you cannot get a rehabilitation centre or experienced person to help and advise.
BABY BIRDS
After making sure the bird is warm and hydrated, you need to do a health check. Baby birds should be alert and responsive. Examine the baby for any injuries, dark/purple stains under the skin, swelling, fractures or anything “odd”. The beak should be clean and free of any growths or mucus. Puffed-up feathers and a bird sitting with its eyes closed is a sure sign that something is wrong. Breathing should not be heavy or clearly visible (body or tail moving up and down).
Remember, the first day is strange and stressful for you and the bird. Feeding is usually difficult with food all over the place; this is normal. It will take a day or two for you and the bird to figure each other out. Don’t aspirate the bird!
The goal is to give this helpless little bird a second chance at a normal, free life as if you were never involved. You are NOT raising a new pet but a wild bird that will be rehabilitated and released. To make this process easier for the bird and minimize the chances of imprinting, don’t play with it, bond with it or cuddle it (no matter how cute it is or lonely it seems). The only time baby birds should be handled is when feeding them and checking their temperature. If possible, feed the little one so that it will not associate humans with food. All this sounds heartless, but it is in the bird's best interest and will improve its chances to be successfully rehabilitated and released.
Sad as it is, it is, unfortunately, necessary to write this as well; when taking in a baby, sick or injured bird, its whole life is in your hands, and whether it will have a future or not depends on you! Please be serious and committed to saving it or get it to someone who will. When you pick it up, it is a promise to help. They need the right food and care, and without it, they will not survive. Not really caring, and basically just helping enough to extend its suffering is cruel!
HOUSING
Keeping a sick or baby bird warm is extremely important. Hatchlings (no feathers) should be kept at 32-35⁰C, Pinfeathers at 25-30⁰C and sick birds at 30-35 ⁰C. The temperature should be consistent and reliable. The best is to use a desk lamp with a red or orange globe. If you can’t find coloured globes, a normal globe can also be used, but cover the box or container with a dark cloth and let the light shine on the cloth. The cloth should absorb the heat and warm the air of the container. Birds need darkness to rest but light to eat (sick birds, older chicks and precocial birds)! Heating pads, warm bottles, etc., can also be used to monitor the temperature. A panting bird that sits with its wings away from the body is too warm, and a bird should always feel warm under its wings. Birds with a high fever or concussion should not be kept warm and never use fan-heaters and energy saving globes.
The type of bird you have will determine what the box or “nest” should look like. A soft blanket placed on a towel in a box works really well. If the surface is smooth, it will cause splayed legs. For mousebirds and swifts that prefer to hang, build a hammock from a blanket or hang the blanket on one side of the box. Boxes, instead of cages, are recommended for baby, sick or stressed birds. Boxes hold heat better; birds can’t hurt themselves, damage their feathers, and tend to stress less.
Precocial (discussed below under Feeding Techniques) should have space to run around, with a heat source and something to cuddle in the one corner. Access to sunlight is critical, even if it is just daily supervised walks in the garden.
The bird itself, housing, blankets and feeding utensils should be kept clean at all times!
FEEDING BABY BIRDS
After the baby is warm and you’ve given some electrolyte water, it’s time to start feeding the chick. It is always best to start with something high in energy and easy to digest. For insect and meat-eaters, give a/d, and for frugivores, Phase1 fruit Purity or grated Papaya. Babies less than a day old (don’t guess) might not have much of an appetite, and it is important not to feed them until they ask for food.
Much time and research go into working out balanced diets, and these diets are usually based on years of experience and improvement. Please don’t randomly guess what your bird should eat or listen to advice from an inexperienced person. Even if birds survive on these guess-diets, they often have serious deficiencies or even permanent damage.
The following are guidelines on what to feed the baby bird. Different species have different portions and ratios of food types, and subspecies may have diet exceptions. Please read up on your bird’s diet. Refer to “feeding Techniques” on how to feed the chick.
DIET
Group 1: Doves and Pigeons (excluding Green Pigeons)
Doves do well on Kaytee, Roudybush, Avi-plus or quality hand-rearing food. If you can’t find powdered good quality cat pellets mixed with lukewarm previously boiled water makes a good temporary alternative.
Group 2: Small Finches, Waxbills, Whydahs, Mannikins
These small seedeaters do well on a quality hand rearing formula (Kaytee, Roudybush, Avi-plus) mixed small amounts of protein like soft scrambled egg, a/d or soaked cat pellets. The Hand rearing formula should be of a much thicker consistency than for doves, pigeons and parrots. These tiny little birds need frequent meals, so try to feed them at least every 20 minutes.
Group 3: Bustard, Ducklings, Francolin, Goslings, Guinea-fowl, Korhaan, Quails
Feed a mixture of Growing Mash, Chick Chick 1, Softbill crumbles and Protein like soaked cat pellets, crickets, mealworms, and scramble egg. Sunlight is also essential for healthy growth and development. We feed a mixture of Growing Mash, Chick Chick 1, Hand rearing formula or Softbill crumble, powdered/soaked cat pellets, Insect Patee/insects, and scrambled egg.
Group 4: Bee-eater, Chat, Cuckoo, Dikkop, Finches, Honeyguides, Hoopoe, King Fishers, Nightjars, Plovers (Kiewiet), Roller, Shrike, Sparrows, Swifts, Swallows, Thrush (Groundscraper only), Wagtails, Weavers, Woodpeckers.
Group 4 are insect-eaters and need a protein diet. Feed petshop crickets, insects and good quality soaked cat pellets (Montego or Royal Canin). Hills a/d or soaked cat pellets mixed with cool previously boiled water works well if the bird needs to be force-fed. Scrambled eggs and mealworms can also be added in moderation. Mince will cause a calcium deficiency, so it should be supplemented or avoided. For Dikkop and plover chicks, use the same feeding technique as Group 3 but replace the food with this insect diet. Swifts do best if fed only crickets, mealworms and supplements. We feed soaked cat pellets, bug pate, a bit of scrambled egg/egg food, grated carrot, crickets, and various other insects.
Group 5: Mousebirds, Loeries, Green Pigeon
Fruit eaters. Fruit should be washed or peeled and preferably organic. Fruit can include blueberries, strawberries, mulberries, papaya, banana, peaches, mangos, apples (remove all seeds), pears etc. Fruit Purity or other fruit baby food can also be given in an emergency. Birds from Group 5 should be given probiotics and organic apple cider vinegar (0.04 ml in 100ml). Also, add small amounts of moringa leave powder.
For Grey Loeriesand Speckled mousebirds, greens and vegetables (mixed vegetable purity, corn, finely chopped spinach, broccoli buds, grated carrot, cooked butternut, chickweed, sprouts or herb salad) can also be offered in moderation. For protein, scrambled eggs can be mixed with the food. A soaked cat pellet or mealworm can also be given every now and then (80% of the diet should be fruit).
Frugivores must be kept warm. Mousebirds also prefer hanging from a soft blanket or towel with their bellies against a heat source. Loeriesand mousebirds will sit with their tails up to indicate that they need help pooping. Softly tap around the cloaca with your finger or cloth.
Group 6: Bulbul, Barbets, Oriole, Mynas, Robin, Starlings, Thrush (excluding Groundscraper), White-eyes
These birds eat fruits and insects. Mix Group 4’s diet with fruit or fruit purity. The ratio of protein/fruit depends on the type of bird. Fruit should be washed or peeled and preferably organic. Fruit can include blueberries, strawberries, mulberries, cranberries, grapes, papaya, banana, peaches, mangos, apples (remove all seeds), pears etc. For sick birds, give pureed papaya, fruit purity or hills a/d. Our Diet: Group 4 + Bio Patee/Softill crumble and pellets and different Fruit and fruit Purity.
Group 7: Sunbirds
Feed small crickets, mealworms, insects and nectar.
Or Jane Burd’s ReWild Sunbird nectar recipe:
1 banana250 ml apple juice
25 grams sucrose (white sugar)
27 grams Isomil infant formula
250 ml water
1 gram (1/2 teaspoon) egg white powder
50 ml carrot juice
Blend all ingredients, strain and pour into an ice tray and freeze. Defrost and feed, discard and replace with fresh nectar in a clean bowl every 5 hrs.
Group 8: Cormorant, Croucal, Crows, Darter, Egret, Grebe, Heron
Birds that eat insects as well as small birds and invertebrates. Feed soaked cat pellets as well as Chicken hearts and/or day-old Chicks. Meat should be cut into small pieces, and scrambled eggs can also be added to the diet. For Hadidas and other Ibises, the cat pellets can be replaced with soaked dog food. Do not give minced meat. Crows do well on a high protein diet, but various other foods such as fruit, grains, vegetables and organ meat should also be added.
Group 9: Buzzards, Eagles, Hawks, Falcons, Kites, Owls
Chicken hearts with a calcium supplement (reptile resort calcium powder is ideal- or any other calcium powder without vitamin D3), day-old chicks with yolk sack removed or rats/mice whole. If you cannot find these, feed chicken liver or chicken breast with a calcium supplement - although this is only a temporary diet. NEVER give mince or red meat (beef, lamb or pork)! Birds from Group 9 should be handed over to a rehabilitation Centre as soon as possible to receive proper care. They have particular mineral and roughage requirements, and some owls like barn owls need rat/mouse meat in their diet. For weak or difficult birds, feed a/d or Recovery with a calcium supplement.
FEEDING TECHNIQUES
Altricial
Birds that hatch helpless and are completely dependent on their parents until they are fledglings and leave the nest. Examples: Sparrow, robins, and most garden birds nesting in trees. Altricial birds will usually open their beaks in the hope of food if they see or hear anything near the nest. These little ones require frequent meals, and depending on age and species, hatchlings need to be fed at least every 20 minutes and feathered nestlings at least hourly. If the mouth is open, you can give food. They will stop asking when they are full (remember common sense). If your baby is scared and not opening his beak, you can carefully open the beak with your nail and insert a piece of food; he will quickly learn.
Doves
Although doves are also Altricial, the “rule” is a bit different. People tend to underfeed baby doves or feed them while their crops are still full. Doves eat quite a lot of food per feeding: A young Laughing dove (fully feathered) will eat 7-10ml three times per day, while a pigeon will eat 15-30ml of food three times per day. A baby dove/pigeon under a week old may require more frequent meals. Feed until the crop is full and only again when it’s empty but don’t let the chick go hungry; this will also cause problems. If there is still food in the crop by the next meal, it may signify something is wrong. The best is to tube baby doves and pigeons but let an experienced person teach you. You can make your own tubing syringe with a bicycle valve or IV tube on a syringe. It’s much easier and less traumatizing for you and the bird and mess-free. Very young featherless doves will also eat from a small hole cut into a glove-finger or plastic bag.
Precocial
Birds that can run around shortly after hatching. Examples include Plovers, ducks, chickens etc. These birds will follow their parents around, and the parents will show them what to eat instead of feeding them. They don’t open their beaks. Put a shallow bowl of cool previously boiled water next to the food bowl. Very young chicks will need to be shown how and what to eat. Show them by tapping on the food with your finger or put a wiggly mealworm in the food to get their attention. They eat the whole day, so food and cool previously boiled water should always be available.
NB: Hatchlings of Precocial and Altricial birds younger than 24 hours (don’t guess just because it is small, weak or featherless, be sure!) may not be ready to eat or have a good appetite. They are still living off the last bit of egg yolk in their digestive system. As soon as they start asking for food or picking at little things, they are ready. Do not force them before then.
RESCUE, REHABILITATE AND RELEASE
There is nothing in this world more rewarding than helping a little helpless life that will never be able to repay you. BUT helping Wild birds and animals consist of three parts: Rescuing, Rehabilitating and Releasing!
Unfortunately, most people only do the first part and then keep the animal because they become attached to it or release it without rehabilitating and following the proper steps. All three parts are equally important because no wild animal should repay its debt for being saved behind bars making you happy.
When helping Wildlife, always remember this Quote from Edwin Way Teale: "Those who wish to pet and baby wild animals 'love' them. But those who respect their natures and wish to let them live normal lives love them more."
It takes real unselfish LOVE to put an animal's happiness before your own and rather let them be happy, free and with their OWN kind.
RELEASE CRITERIA
- The weather forecast needs to be sunny and warm for the next week with no extreme drops in temperature.
- Are the bird's feathers 100% weatherproof, waterproof and in perfect condition?
- Has the bird been acclimatised for at least TWO weeks in an outside aviary?
- Does he recognise pets and humans as enemies? Death is imminent if it approaches either out of desperation or hunger.
- Can the bird drink and eat on his own?
- Does the bird know how to find his natural food?
- Has the bird been introduced to others and properly socialised with the same species so that they will not try to kill him if he tries to join them?
- Has the bird been given the correct ratio of minerals, vitamins and calcium? Breaks often occur after release if the correct ratio was not given.
- Will a soft release be done so that he knows where to find food and shelter if he is not managing outside? Soft releases: the bird has been housed in the area from which it will be released and can return to the cage for protection and food if necessary.
- Is the bird the correct weight for his age?
- Has the bird had sufficient flight practise?
WILDLIFE REHABILITATION CONTACTS
(updated 26 February 2021)
SOUTH AFRICAN WILDLIFE REHABILITATION CENTER
Fully permitted for all species including Threatened or Protected Species (ToPS)
Judy (CEO & Clinic Manager) 073 112 1131
OWL SPECIALIST
Brendan Murray 082 719 5463
RAPTOR SPECIALIST
Pieter Saunders 083 339 6773
Gauteng
Vischkuil, South African Wildlife Rehabilitation Center, 0731121131Midrand, Johannesburg Wildlife Veterinary Hospital, 071 248 1514
Kyalami, Friends of Free Wildlife, 082 5613681
Douglasdale, CARE, 0836593727
Michelle (northern suburbs) 073 314 0674
Georgina (West Rand) 082 559 7105
Peggy (Northern / West Rand) 082 900 9164
Leanne(Pretoria) 082 852 2510
Lynn (Pretoria) 082 568 0370
Lauren (East Rand / Brakpan) 082 873 8235
Shawn (East Rand / Brakpan) 072 691 2521
Natalie (East Rand / Benoni / Boksburg) 083 289 2853
Marise (East Rand / Benoni / Kempton Park) 061 441 4825
Jolene (East Rand / Benoni / Boksburg) 072 312 6769
Martie (Southern Gauteng) 082 772 6108
George (Southern Gauteng) 065 855 8726
Errol (Southern Gauteng) 082 709 7700
Western Cape
Cape Town, CoGH SPCA Wildlife Unit, 021 700 4158 / 083 526 1604Plettenberg Bay, Tenikwa, 044 534 8170
Cape Town, SANCCOB Penguin Rescue Station, 041 583 1830
Mossel Bay, SAPREC, 082 364 3382
North-West
Hartbeespoort, Owl Rescue Centre, 082 719 5463Rusternburg, Wildforlife, 014 5926007/ 0834107962
Limpopo
Phalaborwa, ReWild, 0824577297 / 0828516570Hoedspruit, Moholoholo Animal Rehabilitation, 015 795 5236
Thabazimbi, Gitta-Martula, 014 786 2903
Tzaneen Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre 083 273 6793
Mpumalanga
Hectorspruit, Wild and Free, 079 988 5748Nelspruit, Second Chance Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre, 082 899 4108
Dullstroom, Dullstroom Bird of Prey and Rehabilitation Centre, 082 899 4108
Kwa-Zulu Natal
Durban, CROW, 031 462 1127Howick, Freeme KZN, 0333303036
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